Les Paul R9 Historic Makeovers

C'est malin et on bouffe ou ??

Ca fait rêver!!

En tous les cas je suis ce thread attentivement , je trouve ça passionnant .

Bon, c'est le week-end, j'ai donc pris un peu de temps pour préciser le type de finition que je souhaite et lancer le débat sur les micros. Voici l'e-mail que j'ai adressé à Kim:

"Hi KIm,

This is hopefully the week-end, then I will take some time to put together my preliminary thoughts regarding the guitar I sent you. First, as I sent it direct from the dealer in the US, I have not been able to test her. I hope that it is an OK guitar, I am not dreaming that it would be the best that you have ever seen, but just hope that she may be in the average of the R9 you have had in your hands. If it were not the case, please let me know and we would discuss if it would be really worth going for a RDS. I chose her over the internet because I really liked the top, with some flames, but not too much. And those tops, beautifully flamed are not so easy to find…

She is a bit on the heavy side for a R9 at 9lbs 3oz, but my current 2001 R9 is just a bit lighter and plays really great. I recently tried a very light R9 and was a bit negatively surprised. Ideally I would have preferred 9lbs for my guitar, but in between the top and the extra 3oz, I went for the top... Is the RDS process going to make her a bit lighter, or will she be exactly the same weight at the end ?

In term of finish, there is a guitar on your website, the 9 3958 which I really like, both in term of finish and aging. This one is fantastic. I have read somewhere that your attention to details is so high that you can keep the colour under the pickguard a bit different from the top to show the impact of a pickuard that has never been removed and has blocked UV’s over time. I would really like such details on the top of my guitar. The aging of the 9 3958 seems light/medium and it would be perfect for me. Is it the 100USD med distressing option mentioned on your website?

Regarding pickups, my idea, after discussions with some friends would be to go to Throbak pickups, probably a set of SLE-101 MXV. I currently have Kloppmann’s HB58 in my 2001 R9. I like them, but I want something a bit different. My preference would go to something that matches the concept of a « vintage » tone, but as I have never been able to try a real Burst or even real PAF’s. I will then rely on your views and if you suggest something different based on your experience, and more importantly how you think the guitar will react, then I would not have any problem to follow your suggestions.

The 9 3958 belongs to Joe Bonamassa according to the photographs I saw on your website, which pickups did he select ?

I hope that this e-mail gives you a better understanding of my thoughts. All the best,"

Superbe la gratte sur les photos... La tienne va être top!

Il à quand même bon gout ce joe

A noter que les plastiques ne sont pas si dégeux que ça, on dirait presque qu'ils sont neufs.

Je me tâte à changer les miens sur ma CC8 mais :

1) je trouve pas ce que je veux.
2) c'est souvent too much justement.

Il monte quoi HM ?

Le coup des plastique ne me laisse pas indifférent non plus. Si je monte un set de troback sur la CC8 j'en profiterai pour changer les plastiques.

http://www.historicmakeovers.c(...)arts/

Le tarif des bouts de plastique

ben ils savent à qui ils s'adressent

239$ pour 2 rings ils leu offre un voyage dans le temps en 1959 pour ce prix la ou pas ?!

+1
et
+1

A des maniaques!





Bartlett M-69 Pickup Rings
These pickup rings are exact replicas of cream "M-69" pickup rings made in the late 1950's.

Every effort has been made to make these as close to identical as possible.
These smell correct, look correct and feel correct, because they are correct!
The Plastic
The plastic was made by grinding up an original ring and having the plastic analyzed for chemical makeup and consistency. We were able to read the amount of plasticizer present, and calculate how much off gassing had occurred to the original part based on its age. This allowed us to determine the correct amount of plasticizer needed to create an absolutely authentic part.
Colour, texture and opacity were all matched to a set of original cream rings, and compared to many more original sets for verification.


The plastic itself is Cellulose Acetate Butyrate (C.A.B.), and is formulated just as it was in the late 1950's. The plastic off-gases a unique smell - a tell tale sign of C.A.B.

Modern C.A.B often has an 'odor mask' added to remove or mask the unpleasant smell, often with sweet smelling perfumed scents, but that was not what we wanted for an absolutely faithful replica part.


These small pieces of plastic may seem insignificant, but they are the only thing that bridges the gap between the wood of your guitar and the pickups. They need to be right in order to be as faithful to the originals as possible.

These rings will bring your guitar that much closer to being a true replica of a 1950's 'Burst.

The Tooling
The tooling for these rings is faithful down to the very finest details. Even surface texture of the underside is reproduced faithfully. 

In the late 1950's the original tooling sustained some damage and was repaired by hand. Our tooling has the same repair so it is identical to the original.

The slightly rounded over edges and bowed short ends are classic signs that these rings are authentic in every detail.
These are the subtleties that set these rings apart from everything else made after the originals.
The original tooling was made long before the advent of CNC technology, so all the hand worked surfaces and old school machining is apparent in the finished part. We have worked very hard to ensure these rings have every detail reproduced, even those little ‘accidents’ that the originals have are present.
The Process
These rings are injection molded properly with no cold joint that could lead to cracking/splitting. You do not need to use hot water to bend these rings.

The original tooling has “gate’s” that allow the plastic to flow into the mold. These gates need to be placed in the correct spots to avoid having a cold joint in a weak area of the ring.
Properly gating the molds means these can be flexed and bent over the top of your guitar without fear of them ever splitting, or ever having to use hot water. The original rings from the 50’s never split at cold joints, and neither do these.
The neck and bridge ring are both injected into the mold at the same time, and are a ‘matched set’. This way the conditions for each of the two rings is identical. 
After the parts are injected, the plastic is allowed to cool in the mold to prevent shrinkage and distortion. This process takes time, but it is a requirement to produce absolutely faithful replica parts.
After the plastic cools sufficiently, they are ejected from the mold at just the right moment. This leaves small impressions in the plastic from the ejector pins that press into the slightly soft plastic and leave their mark.
These pins are all placed accurately. Even the texture applied to the ends of the pins is faithfully reproduced, which leaves the same markings on the finished parts as the originals.
Finally - after the part is ejected, they need to be manually separated. This is done by carefully snipping away the ‘flash’ and ‘trim’ this is the plastic the leads to the molds, and cools without being integrated into the finished part. Often this waste plastic, or ‘flash’ is reground and used again in the mold to reduce waste, however, this ‘regrind’ changes the compound after being heated and cooled repeatedly. We do not use any regrind in our rings.
Once the flash is removed, we must manually finish each ring one at a time by grinding down the gate area flush by hand, and finishing the parts cleanup.
Finally the rings are aged one at a time individually for the perfect finished product.

Perso je vois une légère nuance de teinte entre les deux, surtout sur la partie alignée, c'est flagrant.

Impossible de toute façon d'avoir la même teinte, aucun plastique n'a vieilli pareil, il faudrait autant de teintes que de 58/60 originales.

ça, je connaissais pas: RetroSpec Offset
http://www.historicmakeovers.c(...)arts/

le trou de la vis micro n'est pas centré pareil!