Les Modifications De Pédales

Rappel du dernier message de la page précédente :
Mr. dickhead
StratLover a écrit :
Fuzzo c'est toi qui avait fait une fiche récapitulative, tu pourrais la mettre à jour avec ce qu'on a de nouveau ?


C'est fait je l'a poste ce soir ou demain.

En gros comme je l'ai dit, Tout ces modes sont a peu pres les memes, seul quelques valeurs de condo changent (C2 (condo d'entré) et C3 (filtre passe haut) et les traditionelles diode d'écrétage. Pour pratiquement tout les mods C6 est enlever et R6 est descendue a 1K a peu pres. Donc en gros c'est 12 mods sont tout la meme avec quelques variantes minimes.


Ceux que ca dérange pas de percer des trous, on peut mettre deux switch en facade pour C2 et C3, du moins pour C3, C2 c'est a voir si c'est vraiment utile.
Et on peut aussi s'arranger pour mettre un rotacteur sur le coté pour selectrioner les diodes (si il y a la place et une réelle difference sonore entre tout ces diodes et FETS).

Putain tout ca, ca me donne envie de m'acheter une SD1 et de la moddé pour en faire une overdrive de la mort!! (surtout aux prix qu'elle coute!!)
farnouts
Pour la SD-1, j'ai essayé plusieurs mod... le mod CJOD sonne vraiment mieux que tous les autres... pourtant comme tu le dis, les différences sont minimes au niveau des valeurs/composants à changer.
(edite ton post, tu dis µF au lieu de nF )

Je me demande si je ne vais pas passer toutes les résistances en métal film, les céramiques en silver Mica...etc, juste pour voir. Mais à vrai dire, j'ai plus envie de jouer de la gratte que du fer à souder...
Pour atteindre la vérité, il faut une fois dans la vie se défaire de toutes les opinions qu'on a reçues, et reconstruire de nouveau tout le système de ses connaissances.
Starfucker Inc.
Bizarre que personne ne l'ai encore demandée:

La boss DS-2

Frusciante Mod:



R57 3.3k Plus de basses, rajoute un peu de compression, en diminuant le gain on peut retrouver la compression "under the bridge"
C28 une resistance de 1k en parallele avec la cap dejà présente: pour creuser un peu les mediums
C28 à remplacer par .01uf rend le canal rythm plus plein

Pour rendre la disto plus pleine et plus "lampée" , tubey:
D8 1n4001
D9 1n4001 X2 (en serie)
D15 LED
D11 LED
VENTE A PERTE PEDALES ET BAFFLE HAUT DE GAMME

"J'ai l'impression que certains ici ne prennent pas la guitare assez au sérieux... J'en ai surpris en train de s'amuser... Dommage..." - Zepot

FAUVE ? "imiter Thierry Roland qui imite Grand corps malade, c'est pas donné a tout le monde" - Mia Wallace
Starfucker Inc.
Doublon
VENTE A PERTE PEDALES ET BAFFLE HAUT DE GAMME

"J'ai l'impression que certains ici ne prennent pas la guitare assez au sérieux... J'en ai surpris en train de s'amuser... Dommage..." - Zepot

FAUVE ? "imiter Thierry Roland qui imite Grand corps malade, c'est pas donné a tout le monde" - Mia Wallace
Starfucker Inc.
tu as essayé les mods de la DS2 ?

Deluxe memory man:



http://www.diystompboxes.com/p(...).html

Smoother, better clean signal modif ultra simpla: remplacer un chip

I recently bought a new Deluxe Memory Man (DMM) reissue for my delay needs. I remembered that nice warm tone that the DMM gave me. It was pricey but well worth it right?

Anyway, once I got it I noticed that it changed the tone of my Shaka Braddah 3 when the DMM was placed at the end of my effects chain (which is where you usually put the delay pedal). Here's what the chain looked like:

Guitar->Shaka Braddah 3->Deluxe Memory Man->Bassman

I noticed that the Shaka Braddah 3 took on a brittle edge and that it just sounded "edgy" and not warm like it should.

After a myriad of potential mods went through my mind, I noticed that the schematic showed that the DMM used a JRC4558D for the input op amp as well as for other parts of the signal chain. The clean signal clearly goes through the JRC4558D and into the blend pot. I remembered that the JRC4558D didn't sound as good as a TL072 for clean signals in my Shaka Braddah 3 so I figured, why not change it?

The JRC4558D is mounted in an IC socket so changing it was easy. The result? FIXED!!! The DMM sounds smoother and warmer like it should be.

To mod yours:

1: UNPLUG the unit first. Take off the black screws holding the back panel onto the DMM.

2: Take the knobs off and the washer and nut holding the pots to the chassis.

3: Locate U1 on the PCB. It will be located next to the 1Meg input pot. Note the orientation of the JRC4558D, you want your TL072 to be plugged in with the same orientation. Simply replace the JRC4558D located there with a TL072. While you are there, I suppose you could replace every RC4558D with a TL072, but I haven't tried it yet.

4: Put everything back and enjoy your new warmer, smoother DMM!!!

DPDT Conversion/TRUE BYPASS

The Deluxe Memory Man (DMM) comes with a Carling DPDT switch installed but the DMM is not true bypass. This relatively simple mod can be done if you simply have to have true bypass on your DMM. The DMM is really a free buffer/booster when the effect is off and not a bad one at that with the TL072 mod mentioned above. Notice that the input level still works when the effect is bypassed? The straight signal is still buffered through the input op amp.

For reference, here is the original wiring:

DPDT Switch

[] [] ------- T5 - Brown wire

[] [] ------- T7 Red wire

[] [] ------- T4 Grey wire

T8 to input jack

T6 to output jack

Brown is the buffered direct signal

Red goes to the PCB which goes to the echo out jack.

Grey is the blended signal direct from the blend pot.

To convert your DMM to true bypass:

Follow steps 1 and 2 from the previous mod.

1: Disconnect the brown wire (T5) from the switch and tape off the end (you will not use this wire).

2: Disconnect the grey and red wire from the switch and solder them together. Insulate the connection.

3: Disconnect the white wire (T from the input jack and connect it to the DPDT (Illustration 1)

4: Discnnect the T6 from the output jack and connect it to the DPDT (Illustration 1)

5: Connect the middle lug (left) of the switch to the input jack.

6: Connect the middle lug (right) of the switch to the output jack.

7: Connect the bottom two lugs together on the DPDT switch.

Illustration 1:

New DPDT Switch wiring

T8 ---- white from input of PCB ----[] []---- white from output of PCB T6

from input jack ------------------------[] []---- to the output jack

[]_[]
VENTE A PERTE PEDALES ET BAFFLE HAUT DE GAMME

"J'ai l'impression que certains ici ne prennent pas la guitare assez au sérieux... J'en ai surpris en train de s'amuser... Dommage..." - Zepot

FAUVE ? "imiter Thierry Roland qui imite Grand corps malade, c'est pas donné a tout le monde" - Mia Wallace
Starfucker Inc.
DOUBLER SON TEMPS DE DELAY

The audio part:
- next to the input there is a 22 uF cap; this is in fact a 2.2 uF cap
- next to the chorus / vibrato / tremolo switch there is a 12k to ground; this is corrected to a 12k AND a 2.2 uF cap in series to ground with the cap connected to ground.

The other part:
- the 1k2 resistor most left (next to trimpot) is corrected to 8k2
- the speed range caps are 0.33, 0.68 and 2,2 uF and are tantalum
- next to the intensitypot the bias divider is 9V through 330k through 330k to ground
- Cap right before bias potmeter is not 1 nF but 0,1 uF
- most right there is a connection between two opamps (one with 39k in feedback loop, one connected to the 3904); there should be a 39k resistor in that connection
- The 33R resistor is corrected to 68R

http://www.freestompboxes.org/(...)b.pdf
http://www.freestompboxes.org/(...)t.pdf
http://www.freestompboxes.org/(...)d.pdf



CHANGER LA VITESSE DU VIBRATO ET DOUBLER LE TEMPS DE DELAY

I actually like this old effect due it's naturally limited bandwidth and not-so-clean delayed signal. The gentle high end roll off is a desirable feature, and distortion due to the use of analogue shift registers gives the effect personality.

After a trial period of using this pedal I was somewhat disappointed; the [b]vibrato wasn't right to my ear, it was too fast.[/b] Since I really liked the effect though, I decided to look at the circuit. The two simple modifications I came up with only took a short time to implement, using very basic circuit knowledge and a capacitance substitution box.

The first circuit mod offers four slower vibrato speeds to choose from, plus the original faster rate. It is accomplished by way of four capacitors of differing value and a five position rotary switch used to add them one at a time to the vibrato clock circuit. A second modification is used to double the delay time of the echo signal by switching a single additional capacitor in and out of the delay circuit.

Note that by lengthening the delay time without adding additional analog shift registers, a noticeable increase in distortion can be heard in the delayed signal; this may be acceptable or even desirable, depending on one's subjective taste and how much of the delayed signal is mixed in with the direct.

If you look at the front panel image, you can see the added delay doubling switch just under the power LED. The long, pointy knob for the rotary switch that controls vibrato speed is just to the right of the new switch.

In the image showing the bottom of the printed circuit board, a green and white twisted pair of wires can be seen running from the delay doubling switch to the lower middle section of the board. A blue and white twisted pair of wires runs from the vibrato speed rotary switch to the lower left corner of the circuit board. You can click on the photo for an enlarged version to see exactly where the wires are tacked soldered to the printed circuit board for each of the two controls.

Please note that the chorus setting is not altered by any of the modifications described here.




VENTE A PERTE PEDALES ET BAFFLE HAUT DE GAMME

"J'ai l'impression que certains ici ne prennent pas la guitare assez au sérieux... J'en ai surpris en train de s'amuser... Dommage..." - Zepot

FAUVE ? "imiter Thierry Roland qui imite Grand corps malade, c'est pas donné a tout le monde" - Mia Wallace
Mr. dickhead
j'ai essayer ces mods et franchement c'est pas l'extase, c'est m'a pas enorment convaincue.

Super les liens sur DMM, mais faudrait peut etre le mettre en francais, parce que tout le monde ne comprend pas l'anglais, non ? Mais bon je suis pas motivé pour traduire et pour faire du DIY faut un peu comprendre le rosbif quand meme.
Starfucker Inc.
Pareil la flemme de traduire...la flemme olympique même

pour la DS2 si on veut vraiment sonner frusciante je conseillerais plutot de se faire une simu Jfet de son marshall 2555 mais c'est plus de la modif, c'est de la conception
VENTE A PERTE PEDALES ET BAFFLE HAUT DE GAMME

"J'ai l'impression que certains ici ne prennent pas la guitare assez au sérieux... J'en ai surpris en train de s'amuser... Dommage..." - Zepot

FAUVE ? "imiter Thierry Roland qui imite Grand corps malade, c'est pas donné a tout le monde" - Mia Wallace
Starfucker Inc.
Héhé j'ai voulu poster les modifs de la fuzz factory sur le forum de Zvex pour voir sa réaction, et bha il en veut pas

zvex a écrit :
I'm sorry, this is not the proper forum for modifications. I can't support anything like that.
VENTE A PERTE PEDALES ET BAFFLE HAUT DE GAMME

"J'ai l'impression que certains ici ne prennent pas la guitare assez au sérieux... J'en ai surpris en train de s'amuser... Dommage..." - Zepot

FAUVE ? "imiter Thierry Roland qui imite Grand corps malade, c'est pas donné a tout le monde" - Mia Wallace
Starfucker Inc.
On m'informe que Keeley fait aussi des modifs sur les Line6 DL4 et MM4:

http://www.robertkeeley.com/pr(...)id=40

Citation:
Description
This mod is for tone-purists only. It is a mod that can generally only be heard if you compare a stock unit or a have a very good feel for the usual volume output level or background RF noise. With our mods we will correct the volume problem so the level doesn't drop when you use the pedal. It will include over a dozen audio changes to improve the sound. Lastly, the RF noise will be reduced a noticeable amount.

This is great for recording as you will not need to filter it out and can capture more high frequency as a result. The changes are relatively small and do not change the way the pedal operates but, they offer you the best in tone and lowest noise if that is where you are in your pursuit of the finest gear available.

This is our first "high-tech" mod work, we change many surface mount IC's to the hi-fi Burr Brown type, we change some SMT caps to "real" full sized meatl-film caps! Mods to fix volume problems that many listeners can hear as also included.


DONC:

-Comme d'hab chez keeley on fout du metal film partout, ça fait pas de mal
-On remplacer les IC par du burr brown
-Pour le soucis de volume:

Citation:
Here's the deal. At one point around May 2000 a few hundred (mostly) DL4's got out that had caps to ground after the true bypass switch... To make a long story short, they were put there to help with RF by unknowing engineers who didn't understand true bypass. DON'T GET ME STARTED! I caught this mistake and had thousands of them reworked to have the caps removed. you can look on the circuit board and see where these caps would go...
The ref numbers are... C1,C36, C23, & C24...they're easily traced from the jacks. So, you need to have those caps removed if they are there!

As for the gain loss... that can be fixed by replacing R36 & R37 with a 24K value resistor... good luck!
-Mr. Huge
VENTE A PERTE PEDALES ET BAFFLE HAUT DE GAMME

"J'ai l'impression que certains ici ne prennent pas la guitare assez au sérieux... J'en ai surpris en train de s'amuser... Dommage..." - Zepot

FAUVE ? "imiter Thierry Roland qui imite Grand corps malade, c'est pas donné a tout le monde" - Mia Wallace
midnightus
intéressant ca mais ca consiste en quoi la modif? xD

En ce moment sur effet guitare...