J'ai l'originale de la creamy dreamer, doit pas y en avoir beaucoup en circulation, mais je doute que sa côte augmente pour autant: l'utilisation qu'en a fait corgan est plus qu'anecdotique...
Le "fameux son corgan" ça serait plus un marshall jmp1, avec un ADA MP-1
Juste en remarque: le circuit est protégé par une couche d'epoxy comme chez cornish:
Le site sur les mods de big muff est de nouveau en ligne:
http://www.student.ru.nl/r.ker(...)f.htm
Je fais un copier coller au cas ou il serait de nouveau down
Easy Mods:
Multiple diode mod; The Big Muff has two diode pairs that regulate the amount of signal that is fed back into the gate of the transistor. By passing signal through diodes compression and clipping occur.
Replace the two diodes pairs by other diode pairs can change the overall character of the sound.
* Stock Si diodes are used (1N414
; silicium diodes don't cut the sound that much and deliver smooth compression. Fuzz is tight and compressed. I use these diodes as a reference to the others mentioned below.
* The reissue version uses 1N6263 silicium Schottky diodes; these diodes cut the sound less that 1N4148's and add some more compression. Result: signal is louder, more compressed, tighter and tend more to the treble side of the spectrum.
* Germanium diodes; germanium cut the signal more and delivers a less smooth compression. Result: signal is less loud, splattery and less compressed. When tweaked right, an upper octave can be heard.
* LED (Light Emitting Diodes); LED's cut the sound even less and add some more compression. Signal is loud, compressed and tight.
* 1n400x's; bit same as LED's
* FET's; A FET can be used as a diode and give a truly unique sound. Tie the Drain and Gate of the FET together and use two as a diode-pair.
* No diodes. A great trick; removing the diodes make the pedal louder, less compressed and more into a Fuzz/Overdrive pedal. Pedal is now "Fucking" Loud, so be careful with the volume knob. Characteristic of the Big Muff sound is gone.
Because the diode are in pairs, you can use two different diodes for a different kind of sound. Also an option is to use different diodes for both pairs.
Emitter mod; (also known as the Creamy Dreamer mod).
Remove the emitter resistor (value = 100 or 390 ohm) of transistor 1 to 3 (Q1 - Q3) and replacing them with a jumper (wire) you get a different sound. People said it reminded them of the "Siamese Dream" sound (Smashing Pumpkins).
Noise gate mod (peut servir de CORNISH MOD); with this mod the Big Muff will be quiet when you don't play or can sound really low-fi.
Add a 100k trimpot (wired as a variable resistor) parrallel to the resistor before Q3 from signal to ground (R13). Add a switch so you can also undo the mod. Turn on the pedal and tweak the trimpot to taste. When combined with germanium diodes in the Q3 feedback loop, an octave up can be achived quite easy.
Transistor mod; Replacing the transistors can differ the sound greatly.
Remove all transistors and add a transistor-socket (or make one out of IC sockets). Experiment with transistors. Some options:
* Stock 2N5088; high gain sound, more compression;
* 2N3904; less gain, more OD feeling;
* BC141; low gain, great OD / fuzz like sound.
Feedback mod; with this mod high notes will make "afternotes" a la Nintendo.
Connect a wire between the emitter of Q3 and the emitter of Q2 (sustain will be on full when engaged). Another place is between the collector of Q1 and the collector of Q3 (sustain can be adjusted). A nice control of this feedback loop can be made by inserting a LDR (Light Dependent Resistor) between the two points. This way the amount of light will determine the amount of current going through the feedback loop. With your foot you can control the amount of light thus control the amount of insane-ness.
NYC:
Russian:
Booster mod; A great mod is by adding a booster in front of the Big Muff. One great option is the AMZ MOSFET booster (a similar circuit is under the "boost" knob of the T-rex Mudhoney. Adding this gives a great saturation of the signal.
Tone stack mods:
The Big Muff Pi is legendary due to his tone section; only one knob to select between a bass, treble or in-between setting. The overall sound of this tone knob is the loved / hated mid cut.
original from DIYSTOMPBOXES
Some versions (view the frequency response here):
* Triangle version: R1=33k, C1=4n, R2=33k, C2=10n;
* Ramshead version: R1=33k, C1=4n, R2=22k, C2=10n;
* 1975 version: R1=39k, C1=4n, R2 = 22k, C2=10n;
* 1977 opamp version (1): R1=5.6k, C1=100n, R2=1.2k, C2=120n;
* 1977 opamp version (2): R1=8.2k, C1=100n, R2=1.2k, C2=120n;
* Green Russian version: R1=20k, C1=3.9n, R2=22k, C2=10n;
* Late model: R1=39k, C1=4n, R2=100k, C2=10n
* Reissue version: R1=22k, C1=3.9n, R2=22k, C2=10n;
* Little Big Muff version = reissue version.
And then some different mods:
* Swollen Pickle: R1=33k, C1=3.3n, R2 = 22k, C2=47n;
* Flat mids: R1=33k, C1=5.6n, R2=33k, C2=5.6n;
Mid control : Replace C1 with a pot wired as followed:
* Solder lug 2 and 3 to each other;
* Add a 1n cap to lug 1
* Add a 100n cap to lug 3 (and lug 2 of course)
* Solder the other sides of the caps together;
* Solder a wire from R1 to lug 1, solder a wire from R2 to the bound together caps (see 4th point).
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Une autre source:
Sustain punch mods:
-Remove 470PF caps (in the diode clipping circuit)
-All 8.2K/10K (depending on what muff you have) are now 15K or 18K (depending on how much grit you want)
-All Emmiter resistors are ommited EXCEPT for Q4, though i guess you COULD remove all of them, no?
-The tone stack was NOT messed with or modded in any way.
